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Claude Dugat is the undisputed star of Gevrey-Chambertin and one of France’s most respected winegrowers. The family’s viticultural history began in the early 19th century, when Annet Dugat, a mason from the Auvergne, had come to Burgundy to work on the region’s canal systems. He married a vigneron’s daughter in Gevrey and established a path for himself and the generations of Dugats that followed. Claude’s father, Maurice, bought the Grange des Dimes in 1955, a historic landmark in Gevrey, and changed the name to the Cellier (Cellar) des Dimes. This ancient barn-turned-winery, built in the 13th century on Gallo Roman ruins, had once stored tithes of grapes and grains being given to the Church. In focusing on the preservation of the family terroirs at every step of the process from grape to glass, he has since been able to achieve powerful yet elegant Pinot Noirs and earn himself a worldwide reputation for excellence.

Not only is his estate tiny, at less than five hectares, but his typical yields of 18 hectolitres per hectare are also tiny – less than half the average for Burgundy. While he may produce the same numbers of grapes as his neighbours, the berries are half the size. Claude’s attention to detail extends to knowing each individual vine in his vineyard, which he tends personally, with his horse. Given this extreme micro-production and attention to detail, as well as Claude’s holdings in some of Gevrey’s finest vineyards, it’s perhaps not surprising that the wines show a virtually unparalleled natural intensity of fruit, making them hugely sought-after.

2011

• £2,075 per 12
• 92 points from Wine Advocate
• Most affordable vintage on the market
• Comparable vintages
• 2007 (91 pts) £2,300
• 2001 (90-92 pts) £3,400
• Experienced 80% growth over last 5 years, illustrated below
• 1991 (92 pts) £4,000

“Moving on to the trio of Claude Dugat’s Grand Crus, the 2011 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a quintessential “Charmes” bouquet with vivacious scents of dark cherry, blueberry and quince, suffused with an almost sorbet-like freshness. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly sinewy entry. It coalesces in the second half and displays very fine, supple tannins with plenty of juicy Pinot fruit just cloaked under the 100% new oak at the moment, although everything is balanced and in sync. I would afford this three or four years in bottle for it to fully integrate. Drink 2016-2025.”

2012

• £2,675 per 12
• (94-96) points from Wine Advocate
• Best value, high scoring vintage
• Comparable vintages
• 2009 (95 pts) £3,300
• 2005 (93 pts) £5,075
• 1999 (96 pts) £7,620
• Experienced 110% growth over last 5 years, illustrated below
• 1993 (96 pts) £6,550
• 1990 (96 pts) £8,400