Haut Bailly 1996

This is certainly more opaque than the 1995 whilst the nose is more closed and dominated by the Cabernet Sauvignon: blackberry, cedar and a touch of pencil-lead. Good definition but a little broody when first poured from the bottle, but developing an espresso/dried orange peel aroma after 20 minutes. The palate has a firm structure, a certain smokiness on the middle, great definition but much more masculine than the 1995. Blackcurrant, a touch of briary and blueberry with a firm tannic, persistent finish. Good length. Still stubbornly backward, this is a superb, conservative Haut-Bailly that needs more cellaring. Drink 2012-2025. Tasted September 2007.

Haut-Bailly's 1996 displays less charm than usual, but it does offer moderately intense red currant/cherry fruit combined with earth, smoke, and new oak. An elegant, medium-bodied wine with dry tannin in the finish, it will never be a heavyweight, but it possesses considerable personality and potential complexity. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2015.