Chateau le Gay 2015

A tight and racy red with walnut skin, pecan nuts, chili and spice. Blackberry. Full body, round texture. Chewy. Very promising. Like the great Le Gays from the 1980s.

Back on form after a slight dip in quality in 2014, this has all the concentration and plushness that you expect from the property, with scented oak, flavours of bramble, liquorice and orange zest, ripe tannins and a refreshing, tapering finish. Drink: 2023-32

The 2015 Le Gay comes from the 6.5-hectare Pomerol estate, of which 2.09 hectares are currently being restructured. It is a blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc picked from 27 September until 8 October at one degree lower alcohol than Montviel; it has a fragrant bouquet with delineated red cherries, crushed strawberry and hints of vanilla from the 100% new oak. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, ripe and rounded in the mouth, very well balanced and very smooth. This just glides across the mouth and once that new oak has been absorbed, this will be a gorgeous Le Gay to behold. Do not overlook this Cru because it has been on a roll in recent years.

Goes for a showy style and pulls it off, with a cashmere feel to the layers of warm fig, blackberry coulis and plum reduction. Ganache and warm espresso notes line the hedonistic finish.—J.M.

Polished crimson. Some freshness on the nose though clearly very ripe and sweet too. Creamy and spicy. Just the right side of overripe. A little bit severe and yeast-extracty on the end. But there is lots humming away here on the palate. I may be underscoring this wine.