2012 Vosne Romanee les Brulees
By Domaine Meo-Camuzet
2012 Vosne Romanée Les Brûlées from Domaine Méo-Camuzet, Burgundy, France
The 2012 Vosne Romanée Les Brûlées from Domaine Méo-Camuzet is a wine that eloquently speaks of its vintage story, fluently expressing the twists and turns of Burgundian climatology. The 2012 vintage in Burgundy was one fraught with challenges: a harsh winter followed by tumultuous spring conditions led to reduced yields. However, like a phoenix from the ashes, the smaller yields concentrated the flavours and the warm, tranquil autumn was a saving grace, allowing for excellent ripening conditions.
Luminous Complexity Unearthed from Adversity
The strength of the 2012 Vosne Romanée Les Brûlées lies in its brilliant reflection of adversity transmuted into elegance. Its bouquet unfolds with the nuanced sophistication expected from such an esteemed terroir, releasing an interplay of ripe cherries and darker berries seamlessly entwined with an earthy minerality and subtle whispers of fine oak.
On the palate, this wine from Domaine Méo-Camuzet reveals a tapestry of silken tannins that guide an ensemble of spiced plum and blackcurrant notes through to an expressive and enduring finish. The texture suggests a well-structured composition; it’s firm yet gracious—a hallmark of masterful winemaking realised under less-than-ideal growing seasons.
A Testament to Viticultural Resilience
A deeper dive into this particular bottle unveils layers that speak to both the resilience of Vosne-Romanée's terroir and the astuteness of Domaine Méo-Camuzet's viticultural practices. Their ability to coax out such balance and harmony in a challenging year is a testament to their deep understanding of their vines and formidable skill in both vineyard and cellar.
With each sip of this 2012 Vosne Romanée Les Brûlées, enthusiasts can detect a vibrant core surrounded by an intricate complexity that seems only attainable in Burgundy when nature tests the mettle of both grape and winemaker.
For patrons eyeing a distinguished wine investment opportunity, consider this vintage as it narrates a compelling survival story within each bottle—an inspired choice for collectors who appreciate wines with character shaped by the elements.
In summation, the 2012 Vosne Romanée Les Brûlées from Domaine Méo-Camuzet rises as an exemplar of vintage individuality; it stands not just as a beverage but as bottled heritage—a chapter taken from burgundy’s historical ledger, encased in glass for prosperity.
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Scores and tasting notes
The 2012 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Aux Brulees comes from two parcels in the vineyard, one at the bottom of the slop towards Les Suchots and the other further up the slope, with many vines planted in the 1930s. It has a sophisticated bouquet that is beautifully defined and perhaps unlike the Echezeaux there is a sense of nonchalance and effortlessness here that is translated onto the palate. There is very fine density here with cashmere tannins, very well judged acidity and a harmonious, silky smooth iodine-tinged finished that you want to elope with. This is gorgeous and I can see this aging for many years. Domaine Meo-Camuzet boasts one of the most enviable portfolios in Vosne-Romanee, crowned by Richebourg Grand Cru and Cros Parantoux, the latter essentially grand cru in all but name thanks to the late Henri Jayer, who decided that vines might profit more from the land than a few veg. I have been following the wines for over a decade and visiting Jean-Nicolas Meo’s cellar just down the road from Bernard Gros. Together we tasted through both his negociant and domaine bottlings, partly from pre-prepared samples and others directly from barrel. He told me he had been surprised at the changes in pH post-malo-lactic fermentation, possibly due to a precipitation of potassium that had made the wines feel rounder. Certainly some of the cuvees did have a certain “sumptuousness” about them, but for the most part that tannins were present and correct, lending backbone to offset the occasionally intense fruit. Readers should note that I took a video of Jean-Nicolas discussing the vintage in his cellars, so please access this for further insight. Importer: Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524
Neal Martin - The Wine Advocate, 29 December 2013