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2008 Clos de Vougeot
By Domaine Leroy
2008 Clos de Vougeot from Domaine Leroy, Burgundy, France
The 2008 vintage stands out in the rich tapestry of Burgundy's history, as a year where winemakers had to exhibit exceptional skill to circumvent the challenges presented by the whims of nature. Among these artisanal triumphs is the 2008 Clos de Vougeot from Domaine Leroy—a wine that magnificently exemplifies the resilience and finesse of its terroir.
Precision and Poise: A Testament to Terroir
Domaine Leroy's dedication to biodynamic practices shines through in their management of the illustrious climat of Clos de Vougeot. In 2008, a cool summer followed by a September that required vigilant sorting, crafted a vintage which speaks volumes about meticulous vineyard husbandry and astute winemaking.
A Snapshot of 2008: Sublimity Despite Adversity
The 2008 Clos de Vougeot from Domaine Leroy is an exquisite testament to the calibre achievable in a less-heralded year. Through intricacy and precision, this vintage reveals a layered complexity rarely unearthed in such climatic conditions. On approach, one is greeted with a bouquet of perfumed earthiness, laced with subtle hints of cherries and an ethereal quality reminiscent of fine silk drapery.
Upon tasting, the palate is graced with a tight-knit tannic structure that promises maturity; an investment-worthy quality that will unfurl over time. Embellished with flavours as nuanced as its aromatic profile, it speaks eloquently of damp forest floor mingled with vestiges of ripe red fruit, kept upright by a backbone of Burgundian acidity.
Reflecting on the 2008 Clos de Vougeot from Domaine Leroy—a wine sculpted from adversity—it articulates its narrative with eloquence undoubtedly worthy of any serious investor’s consideration. This nectar is not just a testament to Domaine Leroy’s unwavering pursuit of excellence, but also an ode to the vintage's unique character itself; a narrative enshrined in liquid splendour. An exemplary addition to one’s portfolio, encapsulating both rarity and remarkable potential for growth.
Market price (CAD)
$98,430.00
12x75cl
Highest score
96
POP score
3696.25
Scores and tasting notes
If I was expecting density and formidable tanninity from Bize-Leroy’s 2008 Clos Vougeot – and I guess that, relatively speaking, I was – it surprised me with its remarkable sense of buoyancy and transparency. The extract and the tannic underpinnings are there, but felt in the background – or like the ground you walk on and whose support you don’t think about. Through a deep pool of grenadine, cherry and red meat juices are glimpsed heliotrope and narcissus perfume; rose hip, black tea and licorice; salt and crushed stone. An invigoratingly tart kick of berry skin and rhubarb adds to the kinetic intensity of an exhilarating finish. In 25 years I suspect this will still have sap and energy in reserve. It is a Clos Vougeot like no other I can recall. Lalou Bize-Leroy reports average 2008 Pinot Noir yields of 13 hectoliters per hectare, almost absurdly tiny even by her singular standards. Malos were a bit later than usual but were finished by summer, and the wines bottled – as usual – in December. Yet – also as usual – if their development was thereby in any way stunted, you certainly won’t detect it in the bottle today! The best of these display a sense of transparency; levity; and – even when rich and head-spinningly complex – a sheer sense of refreshment and invigoration that I have seldom encountered in other great wines from these sister estates. (Please note that my account of the complete 2007 red collection at Leroy was published in issue #189.) Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-040
David Schildknecht - The Wine Advocate, 28 June 2010