Domaine Leroy   Clos de Vougeot

2012 Clos de Vougeot

By Domaine Leroy

2012 Clos de Vougeot from Domaine Leroy, Burgundy, France

In the lattice of Burgundy's prestigious appellations, the 2012 Clos de Vougeot from Domaine Leroy emerges as a wine of profound complexity and finesse. This vintage stands out in my memory as one that has deftly captured the essence of its terroir.


A Vintage Testament to Terroir

The 2012 growing season in Burgundy traversed challenging weather patterns, ultimately giving way to reduced yields but increased concentration. This is reflected in the exceptional depth presented by the vintage. The fruits' character within this Clos de Vougeot were patiently sculpted by these climatic intricacies, and thanks to the masterful hand of Domaine Leroy, they materialised into a wine of elegiac grace.


Investment-Calibre Poise

The zenith of this particular vintage lies undoubtedly in its potential for investment. Wines of such exceptional calibre and scarcity invariably command attention in fine wine investment portfolios. The 2012 Clos de Vougeot bears the hallmarks of a poised ingress into any seasoned investor's collection.

My tasting reveals a tapestry of opulent dark cherry and raspberry notes, cradled by an earthy undertone which only the greatest Burgundian expressions can boast. With whispers of spice and a touch of oak intricately woven throughout its structure, this wine offers a grandiose finish that resonates with persistence and poise.

In summary, the 2012 Clos de Vougeot from Domaine Leroy is a compelling composition that stands out not only for its reflection of an indelible vintage but also as an astute choice for connoisseurs and investors alike. It is an exquisite embodiment of what makes Burgundy's soil sacred amongst vineyards – an unmatched alchemy between earth and grape.

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Scores and tasting notes


The 2012 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a slightly ferrous bouquet with superb definition, hints of sous-bois underlying the black fruit. The palate is silky smooth and supple on the entry. There is fine weight in the mouth, fleshy and generous towards the finish that builds and builds, yet maintains fine delineation and focus. This is one of Lalou’s most charming 2012s. Lalou Bize-Leroy’s domaine wines are not the easiest to procure, but given that in 2012 the average rendement was a paltry 9hl/ha then I am envisaging a few lively “discussions” on the touchy subject of allocations. Lalou, suffering the sniffles when I visited but as energetic as always, was ecstatic about her 2012s, regaling them for their mineralite and terroir expression. She started picking on 17 September, a little earlier than others, and told me that the malo-lactics were a little tardier than usual because of the fresh acidity levels. Certainly some of the samples demonstrated a lot of reduction, more than Lalou was care to admit, but peering through them, there really were some quite astonishing wines in her midst. I speculate that the better Lalou’s wines, the more excited her two dogs behave during the tasting, and our two hour degustation was interspersed by manic tail wagging, the occasion tussle and one growling stand-off at the precise moment I had her magisterial Musigny in my glass. The journey through the grand crus was exhilarating, each suffused with untrammeled energy and tension, more expressive of their terroirs than the 2011s that I tasted back in July. There is a part of me that wants to by cynical given the stratospheric prices demanded, as if to say to Lalou: “Prove it.” And that’s the thing – they go ahead and prove that these are some of the finest Pinot Noirs produced on Earth. Readers should not that Lalou invited me to taste her 2012s either from barrel or later in bottle, whichever I prefer but not both due to miniscule quantities that are often just a single barrel, a position I completely respect and support. I would have chose the latter if I was being selfish, but the former to offer some guidance and some juxtaposition with other vignerons. Also, I did not taste the wines from Domaine d’Auvenay simply because the quantities are so depleted in 2012. Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-040 and through Justerini & Brooks (UK)

Neal Martin - The Wine Advocate, 29 December 2013

Vintage performance