Domaine Leroy   Gevrey les Combottes

2007 Gevrey les Combottes

By Domaine Leroy

2007 Gevrey-Chambertin les Combottes from Domaine Leroy, Burgundy, France

The heralded 2007 vintage in Burgundy flirts with the senses in a complex dance of ripeness and restraint, and nowhere is this tension more exquisitely expressed than in the 2007 Gevrey-Chambertin les Combottes from Domaine Leroy. Synonymous with the pinnacle of Burgundian viticulture, Domaine Leroy is masterful in the art of capturing terroir.


Rarity and Refinement: The Essence of Investment Worthy Wine

This particular parcel, nestled within the illustrious Gevrey-Chambertin appellation, benefits from Domaine Leroy's meticulous biodynamics. Under the vigilant eye of Lalou Bize-Leroy, 2007 was approached holistically, forging wines that are both a vigneron’s endeavour and Mother Nature's blessing.


Distinctive 2007 Vintage Qualities

Moving on to the climatic concerto that defines this vintage; 2007 was a year of untimely weather patterns which concluded benevolently for those patient and astute. A comparatively cool August dovetailed into a blissful September rally, underscoring the vintage's defining hallmark: impeccable grace under potential adversity.

In the glass, this 2007 Gevrey-Chambertin les Combottes unfurls seductively with a bouquet that weaves dark cherry and earthy undergrowth with ethereal violet overtones. The palate resonates with a balance seldom achieved – the fruit is neither overly ripe nor lacking; it sings a perfect pitch. Tannins, finely wrought as antique lace, support but never dominate the narrative of fruit and terroir.

Within the arc of its development, the wine impresses with its chronicle of the growing season. An investment in this bottle is as much an investment in history as it is in viticulture – as each sip evokes not merely a region or grape but also an annum's unique whisper to us through times rippling curtain.


Concluding Impressions for Investment Considerations

In summary, fellow connoisseurs seeking an exquisite tale in every glass will find no better narrative than the 2007 Gevrey-Chambertin les Combottes from Domaine Leroy. With its poised expression of the year's character and pedigree of Domaine Leroy's winemaking elegance, this Burgundian treasure is essential for those curating collections where value appreciates not only on ledgers but also in legacy.

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Scores and tasting notes


Boasting – if that is the right word – a tannic density unrivaled in its collection, Leroy’s 2007 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Combottes offers ripe yet tart cherry and blackberry tinged with Lapsang tea smokiness and underlain by roasted meats and chalk. The opaque sense of richness here is at odds with the norm among Leroy 2007s and is literally reflected in the glass by the wine’s turbidity. For now, the finishing fruit has to work hard to overcome gum- and lip-numbing tannin of a sort that I do not think is merely being temporarily accentuated and that I am not convinced – Leroy’s obvious belief to the contrary notwithstanding – conduces to long-term cellaring. That said, I would, of course, be delighted if she and this wine – neither of which I challenge lightly – made me look foolish a dozen years hence. The results Lalou Bize-Leroy achieved in 2006 – as I wrote in my previous red Burgundy report – were especially notable considering the misgivings she expressed early on about that vintage. She appeared more enthusiastic early on about 2007, but in this instance it’s far from merely notable – frankly, it’s utterly improbable – the richness and complexity that the Leroy team has achieved, especially considering that harvesting began here already on August 27! This collection is quite distinctive even from the very few others of its vintage that come even remotely close in quality. These 2007s display a sense of effortless effusiveness, primary juiciness, and – I don’t know how to put this less nebulously – elegance and in the best instances transparency, contrasting with the impressions of tumescent ripeness, coagulation, and new wood veneer that in some vintages accompany the profound richness of Leroy reds. As usual, the wines were all bottled in December, which at least in this vintage seems less difficult to reconcile with their exceptional quality than it does in vintages like 2005 or 2008, when so many of the other top practitioners of red Burgundy emphasize the need for longer elevage. Extremely low yields are of course also a common denominator among Bize-Leroy’s collections, although in the challenging 2007 vintage, she had somewhat more company than usual among fellow-vignerons in the roughly 20 hectoliter-per-hectare range. (And that was bounteous compared with the 13 hectoliters per hectare Bize-Leroy reports having managed in 2008, a vintage from which she did not want to show her bottled wines until June of this year, so that I shall publish notes on them in my follow-up to the present report.) Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

David Schildknecht - The Wine Advocate, 28 June 2010

Vintage performance