2008 Vosne Romanee les Brulees
By Domaine Meo-Camuzet
2008 Vosne Romanee les Brulees from Domaine Meo-Camuzet, Burgundy, France
In the oeuvre of Burgundian fine wine, a standout chapter deserves to be dedicated to the 2008 Vosne Romanee les Brulees from Domaine Meo-Camuzet. This vintage tells a tale of tenacity and triumph over climatic challenges—a narrative that invigorates the nature of investment-grade wines.
A Vintage Carved by Adversity
The 2008 vintage in Burgundy was not without its trials; a season marked by erratic weather patterns tested vignerons across the region. It was a year that separated the wheat from the chaff, with Domaine Meo-Camuzet showcasing a deft blend of resilience and skillful vinification. The fickle climate bestowed a bountiful acidity upon the grapes that, today, imparts an invigorating freshness to the 2008 Vosne Romanee les Brulees.
Masterful Expression From Complex Terroir
As one delves into the glass, it becomes abundantly clear that this is no ordinary rendition of Pinot Noir. The 2008 Vosne Romanee les Brulees exhibits a profound depth resulting from its storied terroir—a symphony of raspberry and cherry notes underscored by an earthy undertone and a whisper of exotic spices, synonymous with the 'Les Brûlées' vineyard patch. An elegant tension between its structured tannins and lively acidity promises further evolution for those who patiently cellar.
As an essential constituent in the portfolio of astute wine collectors, this 2008 vintage demonstrates versatility—captivating upon release yet unwavering in its potential for long-term appreciation.
An Incipient Classic Among Burgundy Enthusiasts
The critical acclaim for wines from Domaine Meo-Camuzet is well-founded and exemplified in their mastery over the temperamental 2008 season. With each passing year, the legend of the 2008 Vosne Romanee les Brulees burgeons among connoisseurs—a storyline enriched by its capacity to outlast its contemporaries. Wine investors seeking gems with a narrative arc, compounded by an innate capacity for grace with age, will find their expectations surpassed by this paragon of Burgundian pedigree.
Indeed, as we navigate the rich tapestry of fine wines from Burgundy, let us pause and acknowledge one singular truth—the 2008 Vosne Romanee les Brulees from Domaine Meo-Camuzet is a sterling exemplar of finessed winemaking amidst adversarial weather; a beacon for those who understand that true sophistication in wine is often sculpted by challenges conquered.
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Scores and tasting notes
The Meo-Camuzet 2008 Vosne-Romanee Les Brulees – tasted from thank –displays what for this vintage and address is by now familiar blackberry jam, here flatteringly mingled with violet and lily perfume; nutmeg, vanilla and cocoa powder; and a carnal and salted caramel melange that calls to mind roasting pan drippings. Heady in aroma and splendidly rich and expansive on the palate, this creams-over its formidable tannins with sheer lush fruit and torrified confections while preserving an invigorating, mouthwatering salinity and animal savor. Palate staining and generous though this is, its strong tannins hang on long enough to have the very last, slightly disconcertingly austere word, reinforced by a suggestion of stone-licking. After a few spits, I had a bit of a time getting my tongue back in between my incisors and my faintly numb gums. I suspect this will want 5-7 years in cellar and be worth holding – and, of course, periodically savoring – for at least 15 years. Jean-Nicolas Meo emphasized the contrast between the low pHs of his 2008s (typical, of course, for this vintage in general) and the high pHs of 2007, which ironically – since the latter were given a higher dosage of sulfur as a precaution against undesirable bacteriological activity – led, he reported, to 2007s that showed a harder side initially than many of the corresponding 2008s. Given the high acids of 2008, says Meo, he preferred to let the fruit hang longer – even despite some shriveling – so that few of the musts were chaptalized and most were 13% or higher in natural alcohol. Typical for this address, the wines display admirable, even unusually strong sweetness of fruit, but in 2008 accompanied by prominent tannins and notes of new wood. Meo compares his 2008s with 2001 and 1996, opining that his wines from those two vintages have for the most part – in contrast with many 1993s – evolved nicely and without exhibiting excessive stiffness or hardness. I caught some 2008s in bottle and others from tank just before bottling, and the several 2007s I tasted alongside showed well, although Meo – in contrast with most growers – thinks his 2008 fruit was superior even in sheer ripeness. (Negociant wines – some from parcels the Meos in fact farm – are noted as “Frere et Soeur.”) Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524. Also a Jean-Marie de Champs Selection (various importers), French fax 011 33 3 80 22 58 25
David Schildknecht - The Wine Advocate, 28 June 2010