Domaine du Clos Saint Jean   Chateauneuf du Pape la Combe des Fous

2004 Chateauneuf du Pape la Combe des Fous

By Domaine du Clos Saint Jean

2004 Chateauneuf du Pape la Combe des Fous from Domaine du Clos Saint Jean

The year 2004 was a year that unfurled like a poetic verse in the Rhone wine region, encapsulating an aura of humble elegance for the wine connoisseurs. In the heart of this tale, lies our protagonist - the 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape la Combe des Fous from Domaine du Clos Saint Jean. A tango between nature and artisan, this vintage grabs attention not through flamboyance but with its nuanced subtlety.

 

Reflections on Rhone in 2004

Blessed with favourable climatic conditions, the warm days coupled harmoniously with cool nights. Rainfall was moderate, and though winter was slightly challenging, meticulous vineyard management pulled through to produce finely knit wines that shimmered with potential. Unlike its extravagant neighbors, the 2004 vintage stands amongst the quintessential Chateauneuf vintages to capture the true essence of Rhone's terroir.

 

A shining exemplar of fine wine investment

Domaine du Clos Saint Jean, renowned for their craftsmanship, spun magic with this vintage. Harvesting at the perfect ripeness window, they achieved a balance that is often chased but seldom caught. Often in wine investment, it's the lure of the triumphant flamboyant vintages that attracts - but here's where one will find a hidden trove for value; those understated performers which grow steadily with time, enhancing their worth rather serenely - like the 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape la Combe des Fous.

 

A symphony in a bottle

This wine is layered with complex undertones—predominantly Grenache, complimented with accents from Syrah and Cinsault. The initial sensory echo on the palate is of ripe blackberry, soon evolving to a nuanced ensemble of spices and dark chocolate, underpinned by an earthy minerality that stays vivid for a prolonged time - a tribute to the soil of Rhone.

The intellectual finesse showcased by this vintage is a spectacular demonstration of the alternate chorus of power and elegance - one that makes it a worthwhile consideration for investors seeking a distinctive addition to their fine wine portfolio.

 

A standing ovation for 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape la Combe des Fous

In the realm of fine wines, what may appear as underplayed today can morph into the masterpiece of tomorrow. Patience, much like in investments, is a prized virtue in appreciating fine wines - and with each passing year, the magic in the bottle - the 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape la Combe des Fous from Domaine du Clos Saint Jean, becomes ever more evident. Quite simply summed up, investing in this vintage is akin to owning a timeless piece of art that carries an essence of Rhone's narrative choreographed over centuries.

Market price (CAD)

$880.00

12x75cl

Highest score

94

POP score

37.86

Scores and tasting notes

94

As is getting more and more common, this estate produced one of the wines of the vintage in 2004. A cooler vintage that featured higher acids and more mid-weight aromas and flavors, the 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape Combe des Fous sports rocking depth and richness to go with big black fruits, black licorice, roasted herbs and assorted meatiness. Drinking well, I'd pop bottles over the coming couple of years, yet no doubt it will have a solid evolution through 2019 or so. Since taking control of the estate in 2002, and bringing on board rock star consultant Philippe Cambie, the Maurel brothers has been knocking it out of the park in literally every vintage. 2004? Gorgeous wines and easily at the top in a recent retrospective. The cooler, rainy 2008? Beautiful ripeness and texture, and again, at the top of the hierarchy. 2011 is the same story, and it’s amazing what this team has accomplished in all of their vintages. Looking at this retrospective, we went through all of their cuvees going back to 2003. Unfortunately, there’s no new information here, and this tasting simply confirmed what myself and Robert Parker have been saying for some time now; Clos Saint Jean is at the top of their game and producing some of the most singular, hedonistic and brilliant wines in the world. Starting out with the classic Chateauneuf du Pape, it’s normally a blend of 75% Grenache, with the balance a mix of Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Muscardin and Vaccarese. As is common at this estate, the Grenache is aged all in tank, and the other varieties in a mix of tank and barrels. While I think this cuvee always lags the Vieilles Vignes bottling, it is consistently outstanding and always a super value. Moving to the old vine cuvee, this is made especially for the US Market and is 85% tank aged, old vine Grenache, and the balance Syrah and Mourvedre. It too almost always represents a crazy value and has a broad drink window. I’m currently finishing up a case of the ’08, and purchased two cases of the 2010, which is just starting to open back up after closing down shortly after release. As to the Combe des Fous release, this cuvée comes from a single plot of vines and is based largely on Grenache, with roughly 20% Syrah and 10% each of Vaccarese and Cinsault in the blend. The Grenache is aged all in tank and the other components see time in mostly demi-muids. While the Deux ex Machina always impresses more with its overt power and muscle, this cuvee always seems more polished, fine and elegant to me. One of the greatest cuvees on earth, the Maurel brother’s Sanctus Sanctorum is 100% Grenache that comes from a single plot of vines in the La Crau lieu dit. Aged all in demi-muid, it’s been one of the greatest wines I’ve ever tasted, every time I’ve tasted it. All three of these were sheer perfection on this occasion, yet each has its own unique profile. Lastly, and always the most powerful of the cuvees, the Deus Ex Machina is a blend of 60% tank aged Grenache and 40% demi-muid aged Mourvedre that all comes from 70-100 year old vines. The Mourvedre component is really what defines this cuvee, and it possesses the most obvious structure and mid-palate richness in the lineup. Seeming to hit maturity around age 10 or so, it can be consumed relatively early in its life due to its wealth of fruit, texture, and incredibly polished tannin. In addition, don’t miss this cuvee in the lighter vintages, as even their 2004 and 2008 show classic character and no shortage of richness. Importers: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

Jeb Dunnuck - The Wine Advocate, 27 August 2014

Vintage performance