Domaine des Comtes Lafon   Meursault Goutte dOr

2012 Meursault Goutte d'Or

By Domaine des Comtes Lafon

2010 Batard-Montrachet from Domaine Leflaive, Burgundy, France

Domaine Leflaive's imprint upon the hallowed terroir of Burgundy is comparable to the meticulous brushstrokes of a master painter; they are works of art that glean the most visceral reactions from those fortunate enough to encounter them. None more so than the 2010 Batard-Montrachet—a wine that stands as a monument to the extraordinary conditions of its birth year, meticulously crafted by the revered vintners at Domaine Leflaive.


The Nuances of Nature: 2010 Batard-Montrachet

The 2010 vintage in Burgundy was one not favoured by the faint-hearted vigneron. A cool and extended growing season culminated in a late harvest, challenging even the most adept winegrowers. Yet, it is within these capricious climatic confines that Domaine Leflaive has solidified its expertise. The stress upon the vines yielded a crop marked by both paucity and potency, engendering a Batard-Montrachet replete with concentrated flavours and an exceptional balance.

The precision and care taken in both the vineyard and winery have given rise to a wine that strikes harmoniously between power and finesse, exemplifying the domain’s deft approach to an unpredictable season. The resulting 2010 Batard-Montrachet displays a compelling dichotomy: an opulent array of ripe stone fruits, particularly peaches and apricots; however, this richness is counterpoised with an invigorating minerality - a poignant reminder of the wine's noble lineage.


An Investment in Excellence

For connoisseurs and investors alike, Domaine Leflaive's 2010 Batard-Montrachet is an emblem of thoughtful winemaking allied with an outstanding vintage—the very type to refine one's portfolio of fine wines. Its stirring complexity and ageing potential make it a choice selection for long-term appreciation, both on the palate and financially.

In sum, this extraordinary vintage mirrors the rigour demanded throughout its creation. Domaine Leflaive has not merely produced another excellent Burgundy white but has encapsulated an entire year’s trials and triumphs into each bottle of 2010 Batard-Montrachet—a remarkable feat embodying equal portions of skill and serendipity that behoves serious consideration from those vested in viticultural valor.

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The 2012 Meursault 1er Cru Goutte d'Or comes from 0.39-hectares of vine that were planted in 1991. It is more introverted on the nose compared to its siblings with apple peel and fresh pear scents combining with alpine stream. The palate has commendable weight and depth with a seam of lemongrass underneath the citrus fruits, wax resin and toffee apple towards the tender finish. This is a very fine premier cru. I am a simmering ball of irritation sitting in Dominique Lafon's office watching the second hand chipping away at precious time. Where is he? Our rendezvous was 8.30am. Now it's past nine and I have to be at Rossignol-Trapet, essentially the other side of the world, at 10.15am. I should bolt out of the door. But I don't. I don't because this is Domaine des Comtes Lafon. They have what I call a "special pass of forgiveness" that is totally at my discretion and totally unfair. But that's just the way it is. He's probably stopped for a cigarette. Dominique Lafon appears just after 9:03am, suitably remorseful and the raffish rascal has so much charm that I have to resist playfully punching him on the arm and saying: "It was my fault for demanding such an early start." And so we immediately troop down to the cellars to taste the 2012s, starting with the reds that were depleted by one-third due to the multifarious obstacles mentioned all over this report. Dominique divulged that like everywhere else, there were tardy malo-lactic fermentations and that he had not racked the wines. At time of writing he doubts that he will do so. As for the whites, they were depleted by between one-third and one-half, in particular affecting Les Perrieres and Montrachet. Whereas usually Dominique has around 350 barrels in his care, in 2012 that number is around 170. Dominique gave me the minutiae of the harvest, which commenced on 14 September with the young vines in Clos de la Baronne and finished on 23 September in Monthelie and Montrachet. (Compare this to 2011 that began on 24 August and 2013 that began on the 25 September, two days after the 2012 was finished.) How were the wines? We don't have time. Let's bash on with the notes Importer: Becky Wassermann Selections (Le Serbet); (see website for full list of distributors) and also through Berry Brothers & Rudd (UK)

Neal Martin - The Wine Advocate, 29 December 2013

Vintage performance