By Maison Joseph Drouhin
The 1995 Bonnes-Mares from Maison Joseph Drouhin, Burgundy, France
Amongst the pantheon of venerable Burgundian crus, the 1995 Bonnes-Mares from Maison Joseph Drouhin presents a masterclass in the alchemy of terroir and time. The '95 vintage quietly whispers tales of a season defined by tactical challenges, met with an equally astute response from the vigilant vigneron. A cooler year marked by an autumnal turn that coaxed the Pinot Noir to reveal its depth and complexity; this is a wine that epitomises the grace of patience.
Investing in Vintage Symphony
In Burgundy, nuances define greatness. When considering investment-grade wines, one must look closely at the interplay between vintage conditions and the resulting elixir. For connoisseurs seeking growth potential in their cellars, the 1995 Bonnes-Mares from Maison Joseph Drouhin stands as a testament to the longevity and elegance achievable in such invested understanding.
Intimations of Excellence: 1995 Embodied
Tasting this wine is akin to attending an exquisite ballet; each sip pirouettes with grace, revealing layers upon layers of aromatic cherry, sous bois, and a perfumed bouquet that only Bonnes-Mares can choreograph. The palate continues this performance with deft balance—firm yet refined tannins support a structure that has mellowed harmoniously over time. It displays an ethereal quality, redolent with undertones that speak to both its esteemed lineage and unique climatic influences of 1995.
Maison Joseph Drouhin's approach has always been one of minimal intervention but maximum attention; it is this philosophy that allows each vintage to sing its particular verse from vineyard to bottle unimpeded. With over a quarter-century in the bottle, this wine remains remarkably fresh yet garners the wisdom age imparts.
The value trajectory for precise vintages such as this one seems poised for ascent, as collectors worldwide revere bottles that capture both time and place. Thus, the 1995 Bonnes-Mares from Maison Joseph Drouhin is not merely an investment in wine but an acquisition of Burgundy's soul—a journey through seasoned oak forests, along vine-clad slopes, and into the very essence of what makes this region universally cherished.
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Scores and tasting notes
The masculine, dark-colored Bonnes Mares is loaded with stones, iron and lavender aromas. It also displays Asian spices and tangy, yet thick cherries in the mouth. This wine is full-bodied, harmonious and long. Drink 2002-2010. This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. The wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. Pinot Noir, a fragile varietal, reacts poorly to fining, filtration, and careless bottling techniques, I recommend caution when considering buying a red burgundy based on cask samples. I called it as I tasted it, and hope the bottled wine reflects the quality of the samples I was provided. As I tasted through Drouhin's offerings of 1995 red burgundies, I was struck by just how differently each terroir expressed itself. Generally, in truly great vintages ('85 and '90 in Burgundy and '82 and '90 in Bordeaux), young reds, at least when young, tend to express vintage characteristics more than individual terroirs. 1995 is an outstanding vintage, just below the quality of '85 and '90. However, the terroir characteristics of the 1995s are very evident, especially at Maison Joseph Drouhin. Perhaps the tight, concentrated fruit that characterizes 1995 allows more room for the terroir to show itself (as opposed to '85 and '90's lush forward, expressive fruit). Importer: Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel: (212) 818-0770.
Pierre Rovani - The Wine Advocate, 26 June 1997