By Maison Joseph Drouhin
2005 Bonnes-Mares from Maison Joseph Drouhin, Burgundy, France
Reflecting on the majestic 2005 Bonnes-Mares from Maison Joseph Drouhin, one encounters a vintage that stands as a testament to the exemplary savoir-faire of this famed Burgundian house. The 2005 year was a harmonious crescendo of optimal conditions – a benevolent growing season that bequeathed Burgundy with exceptional fruit maturity and density.
A Triumph of Terroir and Temperament
What distinguishes the 2005 vintage from the continuum of outstanding releases by Maison Joseph Drouhin is its superlative balance and concentration. The illustrious terroir of Bonnes-Mares, astride Chambolle-Musigny and Morey-Saint-Denis, conferred its gifts liberally upon the 2005 harvest. A vivacious April encouraged early flowering, which, cushioned by a serene and sunlit summer, culminated in grapes that attained near-mythical levels of ripeness.
Assertive yet elegant, this Bonnes-Mares vintage articulates its pedigree through a tapestry woven from the finest threads of dark berries, earthy nuances, and an enthralling minerality. Fourteen years in bottle have allowed its textures to evolve into something quite sublime – the tannins have softened, conferring a seamless structure that permits its cherry core and whispers of cinnamon to dance across the palate with effortless grace.
Investing in Elegance
The 2005 Bonnes-Mares from Maison Joseph Drouhin possesses all the hallmarks desirable to discerning collectors and investors alike: rarity, longevity, and an impeccable lineage. With ample potential for further maturation, it represents an intelligent curation for any fine wine portfolio. It is a wine that has arrived at a splendid peak but offers promises of unfolding complexity and charm should patience ever be exercised.
As collectors turn their gaze towards robust investments in such turbulent times, wines such as this stand poised at an intersection between aesthetic allure and financial acuity. A bottle or case in one's cellar is not merely a holding; it is an enduring statement of taste and anticipation.
In summing up the prestige of the illustrious 2005 Bonnes-Mares from Maison Joseph Drouhin, we witness the alignment of all that connoisseurs cherish in fine Burgundy – authenticity, finesse, and an aura of enchantment ready to captivate those fortunate enough to partake in its splendour.
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Scores and tasting notes
Black raspberry with horehound aromas in Drouhin’s 2005 Bonnes Mares lead to a sappy, intense palate of black raspberry and pungent herbal essence with notes of caramel and cocoa, and to a finish of persistent fruit intensity. Here is another of those cases where imposing richness coexists with bright, indeed almost electrically energetic fresh fruit intensity. This lacks the riveting complexity of the best wines here today but will be a force to reckon with in 8-10 years. These 2005s were bottled around two months earlier than usual, says Frederic Drouhin, to retain freshness. (Long-time oenologue Laurence Jobard, incidentally, was replaced this year by Jerome Faure-Brac.) As is always the case, fruit from a great many properties owned or accessed by Drouhin is declassified and blended out, leaving only selected terroirs as the subjects of single-site bottlings. (In 2004, for example, even the Beaune Clos des Mouches – due to hail – was declassified into lip-smacking, remarkably soothing Cote de Beaune.) That said, as befits the quality of 2005, there were more individual bottlings from this vintage than is usual, and I did not taste all of them. (Wines from the Drouhin domaine holdings display a “D” in their listing.) This year’s collection radiates class from top to bottom. Even Drouhin’s ubiquitous, 25,000-case generic “Laforet” displays tender, ripe cherry fruit, a silky palate and iodine-like minerality. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne Laforet ($14.00;85). Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818 0770
David Schildknecht - The Wine Advocate, 28 June 2007