Maison Joseph Drouhin   Bonnes Mares

2008 Bonnes-Mares

By Maison Joseph Drouhin

2008 Bonnes-Mares from Maison Joseph Drouhin, Burgundy, France

The 2008 vintage in Burgundy was one which truly tested the mettle of vignerons across the region. A challenging growing season with erratic weather culminated in a harvest that rewarded those who adopted a rigorous and careful approach in their vineyards. Among the successful endeavours of this season stands the 2008 Bonnes-Mares from Maison Joseph Drouhin, a testament to the resilience and meticulous care essential for crafting excellence under such capricious climatic whims.


Investment-worthy Vintages: The Significance of Selectivity

In the realm of fine wine investment, the notion that beauty can be born from adversity rings particularly true for the 2008 vintage. For collectors and investors alike, this year’s offering from Maison Joseph Drouhin provides an opportunity to secure a piece of Burgundy’s triumph over tribulation.

The 2008 Bonnes-Mares articulates its origins with remarkable clarity and poise. This Grand Cru, nestled in the heart of the Côte de Nuits, displays an unmistakable tension between power and elegance that is characteristic of a cooler, late-ripening season. It is marked by a deep complexity and a vibrant structure which seamlessly integrates supple tannins with an intricate lattice of dark berries, underbrush, and a whisper of mineral-infused spice.

Edit for emphasis: For those with an astute eye for distinctive vintages that rise above their challenges, the 2008 Bonnes-Mares from Maison Joseph Drouhin encapsulates such an allure. It spirals upwards as an investable piece, pronouncing not just rarity but also the exceptional craft of a storied Burgundian maison.

In summary, while every vintage sings its own unique song, 2008 was a composition in defiance against nature’s curveballs, delivering notes crescendoed by tenacity and skill. The 2008 Bonnes-Mares from Maison Joseph Drouhin enunciates this melodious triumph—a harmonious blend suitable for both discerning palates and calculated portfolios.

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“The grapes were really beautiful for this one,” notes Veronique Boss-Drouhin, and around one quarter of them were left to go into the fermentor intact and with stems. Vinified in a 400 liter barrel custom-made to accommodate this year’s drastically-reduced crop (and which constitutes the entirety of Domaine Philippe Drouhin), the Drouhin 2008 Bonnes Mares practically explodes on the nose and palate with tiny, wild berries, baking spices, and white pepper. One is conscious of the barrel with its resin and caramel notes, but they don’t intrude. The ester-rich aromatic intensity and practically vibratory palate impression here – as well as an abundance of fine tannin – promise serious, perhaps even two decade aging potential. Don’t look to this wine for nuance or refinement – or at least, not for now. In fact, don’t drink more than a bottle of it just for the experience over the next half dozen years. “2008 was very slow in doing its malolactic – which was good, and ended up with a pretty lively impression of acidity” remarked Veronique Boss-Drouhin, “and I think the wines will be slow to evolve in bottle, as well.” Numerous cuvees were still in tank or barrel when I visited in March, which constitutes an unusually late schedule at this address. The 2007s, by contrast, were bottled even earlier than normal, most at age 12 months. In 2008, a 15-25% share of stems and whole clusters was included in the fermenting vat for the Clos des Mouches and for most of the Drouhin grand crus, whereas in 2007 that degree of vendange entier was practically the rule across the entire Drouhin range (by no means all of which I tasted). Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

David Schildknecht - The Wine Advocate, 28 June 2010

Vintage performance