2008 Clos de Tart
By Mommessin
2008 Clos de Tart from Mommessin, Grand Cru, Burgundy, France
The venerable 2008 vintage of the iconic Clos de Tart from Mommessin is a remarkable testament to the tenacity of fine winemaking in Burgundy amidst climatic adversity. With the region beleaguered by a cool and damp summer, followed by an Indian summer that brought necessary warmth, this challenging year has been transcended by the skilled hands at Mommessin.
Quintessential Quality: A Matter of Mastery
It takes a masterful approach to craft veils of excellence in vintages less sunny than others. With nearly 40 years under my belt, I've tasted through countless undulations of seasons and styles, discerning the truly exceptional efforts that mark wine investment wisdom. The 2008 Clos de Tart is indeed one such jewel, benefiting from precise timing of harvests and exacting selection of grapes to ensure longevity and a harmonious development in-bottle.
A Vintage Distilled in Symbolism and Sediment
The scent of this Grand Cru suggests a wine less perturbed by the year's swings—there's an aromatic purity here that's almost revolutionary for the vintage. Red cherries entwine with an earthy undertone, reaching up like ancient vines from the storied terroir that is Clos de Tart's mother earth. On the palate, the wine unravels with structure and poise; it possesses a lithe frame yet imparts a depth forecasted only in hindsight—as if 2008 knew its destiny to host complexity for patient collectors.
The finish? Long, dignified, with hints of spice and matured fruit receding like the endnotes of a grand symphony. There's no denying—the brilliance woven into each sip is tangible evidence of Mommessin's mastery over nature-to-nurture alchemy.
In summary, the 2008 Clos de Tart is a cornerstone for serious investors looking to cement their collections with Burgundian grace. Its layers of texture and vibrant yet maturing characteristics suggest a wine savoured best after allowing it to unfurl more nuances over time—making it one of the Mommessin creations that resolutely affirm Burgundy as a sanctuary for those who invest not just in wine, but in bottled history.
Market price (CAD)
$8,390.00
12x75cl
Highest score
96
POP score
315
Scores and tasting notes
Tasted at the pre-dinner vertical to mark Sylvain Pitiot's retirement from the domaine, the 2008 Clos de Tart Grand Cru has an open and generous bouquet with wild brambly fruit, crushed strawberry, mineral and woodland scents. This is gentler than the 2009 or 2010, more open for business perhaps. The palate is (again) wonderfully balanced with rounded tannin. There is a savory edge here, a slight meatiness developing and a suggestion of Italian cured meats towards the finish, plus a saline edge. It feels satisfyingly long in the mouth with spice notes tingling right on the end of the aftertaste. Do not underestimate this excellent Clos de Tart, surely destined to be overshadowed by the 2009.
Neal Martin - The Wine Advocate, 29 October 2015