2005 Chapelle Chambertin Grand Cru
2005 Chapelle Chambertin Grand Cru from Ponsot, Burgundy
Amongst the patchwork of Burgundy’s hallowed vineyards, the 2005 Chapelle Chambertin Grand Cru from Ponsot stands as a testament to the genius of this acclaimed Gevrey-Chambertin producer. My foray into the labyrinths of Ponsot's output reaffirms their knack for crafting profound expressions of Pinot Noir.
A Vintage Singularity
The stellar 2005 vintage dovetailed perfectly with Ponsot's artisanal viticulture, yielding a wine that captures the full lexicon of Burgundian sophistication. In this exceptional year, an optimal climatic equilibrium left its signature on the berries, bequeathing to us a Chapelle Chambertin with an ensemble of complexity and finesse rarely matched in subsequent years.
Nuance and Longevity: Wine Investment Hallmarks
For investors and connoisseurs alike, the 2005 vintage propels this Chapelle Chambertin Grand Cru into a stratum of expectation and reward. As it unfurls in the glass, one notes telltale whispers of ripe cherry and blackcurrant that segue into an earthy truffle undertone—an eloquent dialogue between fruit and terroir that speaks of Ponsot's patient stewardship and time-honoured methods.
A resolute structure introduces itself early, promising a long and rewarding evolution. The finish is persistent; a medley of plush tannins and vibrant acidities which presage a splendid ageing potential, paving the way for its inevitable ascent in both grace and value over time.In summing up, the 2005 Chapelle Chambertin Grand Cru from Ponsot symbolises a harmonious alliance between a benevolent season and masterful winemaking. It elegantly champions the vintage’s character, auguring well for those selecting this Grand Cru as a cornerstone in their investment portfolio or cellar collection. Its current drinking window offers an immersive experience but to those who can forbear, further patience promises additional sensory rewards as it continues its exquisite development.
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Scores and tasting notes
The 2005 Chapelle-Chambertin exudes black cherry, plum preserves, chocolate, brown spices and licorice, along with Chartreuse-like high-toned distilled herbal and floral essences. This fills the mouth with doughy thickness and sumptuous richness. The finish evinces more brightness of fruit than with most of the wines, but is above all marked by sweet richness, purity, and sheer might. The selection and age of vine, as well as the vinification are identical for this and the Griotte. “Only” 300 meters separate them. Laurent Ponsot (like his father) vinifies to the beat of a different drummer, whether it is in his employment of a basket press from 1945, his reliance on exclusively (truly) old barrels, his aggressive pigeage, or his virtual refusal (since 1988) to sulfur the wines (nitrogen and CO2 are administered at bottling). The results are as distinctive as the methods, but also profoundly impressive and proven to age magnificently. Certainly one has to adjust to a background level of chocolate and that lack of a certain “pep” that is otherwise conveyed, MSG-wise, to wines given a normal quota of sulfur during their elevage. But after a few samples – and especially when I re-tasted these wines “cold” at 7:00 A.M. – I was fully attuned to their virtues. The alcohols in 2005 are as high as 15%, but you do not notice it, even when told. Asked when he intends to bottle, Ponsot replies “I don’t know. Maybe one or two in the Spring, maybe before the harvest, maybe afterward.” Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802.
David Schildknecht - The Wine Advocate, 29 April 2007