Domaine des Comtes Lafon   Meursault Goutte dOr

2006 Meursault Goutte d'Or

By Domaine des Comtes Lafon

2004 Bâtard-Montrachet from Domaine Leflaive, Burgundy, France

The 2004 Bâtard-Montrachet from Domaine Leflaive is a paragon of finesse and power, embodying the quintessence of its esteemed terroir. This particular year for Burgundy was marked by a cooler, classical climate, which heralded wines of intricate structure and longevity. The vintage allows connoisseurs to revel in the delicate balance that only time can bestow upon grapes nurtured under such conditions.


Investment-worthy Vintage

Burgundy enthusiasts and astute investors alike acknowledge Domaine Leflaive's prowess in yielding vintages of considerable acclaim; and the 2004 Bâtard-Montrachet is no exception. It stands as a compelling tribute to traditional viticulture amidst climatic adversity. For those cultivating a cellar with appreciable assets, this particular vintage offers an irresistible proposition for both palatal pleasure and investment versatility.


Cool Vintage: A Subtle Yet Profound Character

A reflection of the 2004 vintage's cool climate is found within the wine's intricate aromatic profile. A nose redolent with hints of citrus zest interlaced with toasted almond whispers presages a palate marked by a racy acidity. This is deftly woven with a generous minerality that harks back to the calcareous soils famed in Burgundy. The inherent freshness not only defines the wine's current state but also promises blossoming complexity for years to come.

Fluid and precise on the palate, the Bâtard-Montrachet from Domaine Leflaive resonates with flavours of ripe pear and brioche. A persistent finish characterized by subtle oak integration and chalky undertones leaves an indelible memory of the 2004 harvest – a year where nature's restraint has been triumphantly transformed into suave elegance.

The 2004 Bâtard-Montrachet from Domaine Leflaive encapsulates a refreshing classicism that will delight savants seeking nuanced expression over bombastic opulence. This exemplary offering more than merits its place among the sanctum of long-living, investable vintages with potential for remarkable evolution in the discerning investor's cellar.

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Scores and tasting notes


Lafon’s. 2006 Meursault Gouttes d’Or displays ripe pear and apple, along with a prominent alkaline mineral character. Penetrating, bright, and overtly chalky, this finishes with a long fruit and mineral colloquy, and invigoratingly bitter hints of citrus zest and quinine. I suspect this Meursault – which Lafon was set to bottle last – can be counted on for 7-10 years of interesting bottle maturation. The 2005 – plush wine with a spine – exhibits a saline, carnal intensity that calls to mind Chablis. Like his neighbor Jean-Marc Roulot, Benoit Ente in Puligny, and a few others, Dominique Lafon obtained authorization to begin picking several days ahead of the official ban de vendange. He set his crew to work over the weekend, and was finished already on the 20th of September. The Perrieres, picked first, reached 13.8% alcohol, but all of the other wines weighed in at lower levels. Lafon insisted – and his wines testified – that the Chardonnay grapes were botrytis free, and he characterized the lees as excellent in quality and practiced “less settling than I did in the past.” That restraint – along with bright acids and pronounced minerality – makes for a richness that often expresses itself other than in creaminess. As these wines evolved, Lafon became increasingly enthusiastic about them, and I found them much more expressive on the eve of bottling than they had been in late 2007. Incidentally, the sickly vines in Lafon’s Desiree vineyard that have given so much bottled pleasure over the years gave their last in the beautifully refined, bittersweet, and for the vintage unusually delicate and creamy 2005. “It tastes as though the vines knew they were going to be pulled out,” was Lafon’s valediction. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers), fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70; A Daniel Johnnes Selection imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY, tel. (516) 677 9300; Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA, tel. (781) 352 1100; Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040

David Schildknecht - The Wine Advocate, 21 December 2008

Vintage performance