Ponsot   Clos St Denis Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru

2006 Clos St Denis Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru

By Ponsot

2006 Clos St Denis Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru from Ponsot, Burgundy, France

Embarking on a journey through one of Burgundy's more celebrated vintages, the 2006 Clos St Denis Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru from Ponsot stands as a monumental vignette of time and terroir. This vintage marks its narrative emphatically, showcasing the depth achievable in a season peppered with climatic hurdles - hurdles that the old vines at Ponsot surmounted with an effortless grace.


A Vintage That Speaks Volumes

The year 2006 was one riddled with fluctuation in Burgundy; a test of resilience that Clos St Denis' ancient roots passed with flying colors. Unlike its younger counterparts, the maturity of the vines leant a robustness to the fruit, imparting a concentration and complexity into the glass that could easily be overlooked in less dedicated hands than those of Ponsot.

Firm tannins marry seamlessly with a mélange of dark cherry and forest floor, accented by whispers of spice that linger on the palate like echoes of an old Burgundian folk song. Subtle undertones of black tea and dried violets reveal themselves as testament to the season's cooler spells, suggesting promise for further evolution in years to come.


A Narrative in a Bottle

For those who find intrigue in the narrative encapsulated within each bottle, 2006 Clos St Denis Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru from Ponsot articulates its tale with eloquence. It is indeed one of those creations that remind us that wine is much more than just a beverage; it is an investment not only financially but emotionally and intellectually.

The poise with which this wine captures the essence of its challenging vintage makes it an asset for both connoisseurs and investors alike. As interest swells for vintages that speak to the perseverance and adaptability of their terroirs, this particular Ponsot offering exemplifies how such conditions forge wines of extraordinary character.

In summary, investing in the 2006 Clos St Denis Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru by Ponsot is to partake in Burgundy's historical fabric - a complex weave of climate, craft, and vine that culminates in this exquisite liquid anthology. Its narrative depth offers unique allure beyond mere appreciation—propelling it to prominence among fine wine portfolios.

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The label of Ponsot's 2006 Clos St.-Denis Cuvee Tres Vieilles Vignes confirms that he has changed his approach to labeling a bit, since formerly – reflecting his aversion to "vieilles vignes" – this wine called "Cuvee du Centenaire." Here we have the sheer size and slightly gruff tannic grip of the corresponding Clos Vougeot combined with the nuance, intrigue, and exhilarating length of this year's Chambertin. Game, peat, forest floor, citrus oils, and high-toned kirsch and framboise practically assault the nose. Bitter-sweet tart berry fruit and myriad mineral shadings erupt on the palate, while the dark soil and animal low tones as well as the spirituous manifestations of fruit – joined by hints of floral perfume – persist all the way through to a finish of energetic lift as well as faintly gritty and tactilely spicy persistence. Picking chez Ponsot began predictably late – on September 27 – and lasted until October 5. As might have been expected, Laurent Ponsot acted rigorously in the vineyards in the immediate aftermath of hail and eventually on the sorting table (overseen, he notes, by an especially meticulous team of three young women) to insure that any effects were minimized. (For some notes on the often unorthodox methods Ponsot employs, readers should consult my report in issue 170.) Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

David Schildknecht - The Wine Advocate, 21 December 2009

Vintage performance