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2007 Clos St Denis Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru
By Ponsot
2007 Clos St Denis Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru from Ponsot, Burgundy, France
Rich in history and enigmatic allure, the 2007 Clos St Denis Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru from Ponsot captures the essence of its terroir with a grace that commands attention. The seasoned vines of this storied plot have once again delivered a vintage that not only glides through the palate but also offers an investment opportunity with steadfast poise.
A Distinctive Vintage in the Heart of Burgundy
In the labyrinth of Burgundian vintages, 2007 stands as a year that defied expectations with its resilience and finesse. Amidst early challenges, meticulous cultivation birthed a wine that radiates with ripe red berries and an undercurrent of finely tuned spices. This Grand Cru is an orchestra of balance and subtlety, revealing layers that unfold over time.
The temperamental Burgundy weather of 2007 navigated by Ponsot's adept craftsmanship, engendered a delicate dance of tannins and fruit, unveiling a savory complexity unique to this particular year. Astute collectors and investors know that such vintages are one-of-a-kind beacons in the tapestry of fine wine lineage.
A Legacy Etched in Each Sip
One experiences more than just a wine when indulging in the 2007 Clos St Denis Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru from Ponsot; it is a tasting journey imbued with heritage. Cedar aromas entwine with vibrant raspberry notes to create a bouquet reminiscent of autumnal forests and succeeding warmth.
The palate is greeted with an elegant structure where silk-like tannins escort a mélange of cherry and earthy undertones. A hint of minerality serves as a testament to the venerable Old Vines' roots—deeply embedded in the heart of Clos St Denis.
Against the tapestry of wine investments, this rare find from Ponsot articulates its narrative—one underpinned by resilience, nuance, and the timeless nature of Burgundy’s grand terroir. It stands as an emblematic chapter in the anthology of fine vintages, demonstrating why Clos St Denis persists as one of the jewels in Burgundy’s capacious crown.
As we hold our glass high to catch the light gleaming through this enchanting ruby elixir, let us reflect on the journey it has taken. From root to bottle to cellar, each stage no less influential than any other in perfecting the final symphony—the 2007 Clos St Denis Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru from Ponsot is indeed a tale of triumph over trials; a testament to patience, and a triumph for any investor's portfolio.
Market price (HKD)
HK$48,670.00
12x75cl
Highest score
96
POP score
318.13
Scores and tasting notes
Teak, rosewood, fresh purple plum, and fresh animal blood fascinatingly scent Ponsot’s 2007 Clos St.-Denis Cuvee Tres Vieilles Vignes, and their counterparts inform a satin-textured, sumptuous, yet animated and animating palate whose sweetness of fruit; depth of marrowy as well as sanguinary meatiness; and alluringly exotic inner-mouth evocations of aromatic woods are underlain also with the array of mineral complexities – imperfectly described as “saline,” “stony,” or “peat-like” that characterize this great site (more than half of whose acreage is incorporated in Ponsot bottling). This finishes with a resonance, clarity, levity (despite its alcoholic richness) and sheer persistence rare even in Burgundy’s highest echelons, to say nothing of in 2007. I predict that this will also transcend other 2007s in its aging potential and continue to offer thrills for 20-25 years. I asked Laurent Ponsot what he though were the critical factors in avoiding the prevalent pink, under-ripe grapes scattered within the clusters of 2008 vintage Pinot Noir, whose undesirable flavors were bound to have concentrated under the influence of late September wind right along with those of the properly ripe berries. “First of all,” he replied, “you had to prune correctly, which is the beginning of everything – like being in front of a piece of wood or stone as a sculptor and beginning to carve a statue. It’s artistic – not simply something that will determine how many grapes (you end up with). After that, you focus on working with and not in opposition to nature’s cycle. Why are we always the last in Burgundy to pick their grapes? It’s because we pick on time.” In the case of 2008, that meant commencing on the eighth of October; and Ponsot’s 2007s – which taste as though they must come from a completely unfamiliar not to mention remarkably great vintage – were not picked until after the middle of September. “I wasn’t sure in early tastings,” says Ponsot about his 2008s, “that all of the elements would fit together into something harmonious.” For the most part, though, they have – at least, based on my tastings from a range of barrels in late winter. With regard to the distinctively delicious and atypical personality I discovered in Ponsot’s 2007s, readers should bear in mind that he employs some of the lowest levels of sulfur in Burgundy, so there’s no pepping-up going on here by means of dosage, which is seldom employed at all! I couldn’t help thinking as I tasted them: was this much excitement really implicit in 2007 generally and somehow the opportunity to capture it was missed at more than 90% of the addresses where I taste? Incidentally, the big news at Domaine Ponsot last year – although, Laurent Ponsot’s choice of synthetic closures for future bottlings and his remorseless pursuit of forgers and security justifiably made headlines – was that there will be Corton, Corton-Bressandes, and Corton-Charlemagne here beginning with vintage 2009. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802
David Schildknecht - The Wine Advocate, 28 June 2010