Domaine du Clos Saint Jean   Chateauneuf du Pape Deus Ex Machina

2004 Chateauneuf du Pape Deus Ex Machina

By Domaine du Clos Saint Jean

2004 Chateauneuf du Pape Deus Ex Machina from Domaine du Clos Saint Jean, Rhone

The beguiling 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape Deus Ex Machina is an embodiment of the profound tapestry of Rhone’s distinctive terroir, marshalled by the masterful, generations-old wine-making prowess of Domaine du Clos Saint Jean. A true testament to a vintage year that offered climatic generosity following an arduous winter, this remarkable Rhone treasure displays a gratifying interplay between strength, balance and fine complexity, reflective of this particular annus mirabilis.

 

A Vintage Champion - A Game of Balance

In 2004, a dance between mildness and harshness culminated in a bountiful harvest for the Rhone region. The blend in this divine libation includes Grenache balanced by sly notes of Mourvèdre, both layered intently amidst meticulous decanting and the undisturbed solace of French oak barrels - an investment in patience and faith that the Rhone climate will not disappoint.

Drawing this ambrosial nectar to the lips reveals a symphony of ripe red berries playing alongside intriguing undertones of black pepper and earthy truffle. Lingering whispers of crimson carnation and Provençal herbs add to its compelling complexity.

 

The 2004 Rhone Vintage - A Battle Against Time

Not every year lays down a challenge such as climatically eccentric 2004. A struggle between wintriness and warmth eventually played into the hands of meticulous vintners with discerning weather insights. The result? One of the most underrated yet enigmatic Chateauneuf du Pape wines ever produced.

The approachable elegance of the 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape Deus Ex Machina, interwoven with its mysterious charm, effortlessly positions it as an intriguing option for investors seeking out wines that are not merely an investment vehicle but also a journey into the history of viticulture.

Domaine du Clos Saint Jean has masterfully captured the essence of this unique vintage year, weaving it into every sip of their 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape Deus Ex Machina. An investment in this captivating vintage thus serves as both a reward for the palate and a rousing conversation starter amongst discerning enthusiasts.

Market price (SGD)

$2,110.00

12x75cl

Highest score

96

POP score

78.75

Scores and tasting notes

96

Like the 2006 (and 2003), the 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape Deus ex Machina is drinking beautifully today and defies the vintage stereotype. Giving up awesome dark fruits, olive tapenade, licorice, earth, pepper and spice, it has a un-2004-like richness and texture, as well as beautiful underlying structure and balance. Sweetly fruited, perfumed and complex, drink it over the coming 4-5 years. Since taking control of the estate in 2002, and bringing on board rock star consultant Philippe Cambie, the Maurel brothers has been knocking it out of the park in literally every vintage. 2004? Gorgeous wines and easily at the top in a recent retrospective. The cooler, rainy 2008? Beautiful ripeness and texture, and again, at the top of the hierarchy. 2011 is the same story, and it’s amazing what this team has accomplished in all of their vintages. Looking at this retrospective, we went through all of their cuvees going back to 2003. Unfortunately, there’s no new information here, and this tasting simply confirmed what myself and Robert Parker have been saying for some time now; Clos Saint Jean is at the top of their game and producing some of the most singular, hedonistic and brilliant wines in the world. Starting out with the classic Chateauneuf du Pape, it’s normally a blend of 75% Grenache, with the balance a mix of Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Muscardin and Vaccarese. As is common at this estate, the Grenache is aged all in tank, and the other varieties in a mix of tank and barrels. While I think this cuvee always lags the Vieilles Vignes bottling, it is consistently outstanding and always a super value. Moving to the old vine cuvee, this is made especially for the US Market and is 85% tank aged, old vine Grenache, and the balance Syrah and Mourvedre. It too almost always represents a crazy value and has a broad drink window. I’m currently finishing up a case of the ’08, and purchased two cases of the 2010, which is just starting to open back up after closing down shortly after release. As to the Combe des Fous release, this cuvée comes from a single plot of vines and is based largely on Grenache, with roughly 20% Syrah and 10% each of Vaccarese and Cinsault in the blend. The Grenache is aged all in tank and the other components see time in mostly demi-muids. While the Deux ex Machina always impresses more with its overt power and muscle, this cuvee always seems more polished, fine and elegant to me. One of the greatest cuvees on earth, the Maurel brother’s Sanctus Sanctorum is 100% Grenache that comes from a single plot of vines in the La Crau lieu dit. Aged all in demi-muid, it’s been one of the greatest wines I’ve ever tasted, every time I’ve tasted it. All three of these were sheer perfection on this occasion, yet each has its own unique profile. Lastly, and always the most powerful of the cuvees, the Deus Ex Machina is a blend of 60% tank aged Grenache and 40% demi-muid aged Mourvedre that all comes from 70-100 year old vines. The Mourvedre component is really what defines this cuvee, and it possesses the most obvious structure and mid-palate richness in the lineup. Seeming to hit maturity around age 10 or so, it can be consumed relatively early in its life due to its wealth of fruit, texture, and incredibly polished tannin. In addition, don’t miss this cuvee in the lighter vintages, as even their 2004 and 2008 show classic character and no shortage of richness. Importers: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

Jeb Dunnuck - The Wine Advocate, 27 August 2014

Vintage performance