Domaine du Clos Saint Jean   Chateauneuf du Pape la Combe des Fous

2003 Chateauneuf du Pape la Combe des Fous

By Domaine du Clos Saint Jean

2003 Chateauneuf du Pape la Combe des Fous from Domaine du Clos Saint Jean, Rhone

Astonishing complexity is what presents itself in the exquisite vintage of 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape la Combe des Fous from Domaine du Clos Saint Jean. The year 2003 was unique in many aspects, especially in the climate conditions of the Rhone region. A severe heatwave swept across Europe, creating unusually warm circumstances that reflected distinctively on the bio-dynamics of the grapes.

 

A Fine Vintage Worthy of Investment

The 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape la Combe des Fous embodies an investable paradox, a climatic challenge turned into a spectacular gem. The heart of this wine lies in its exceptional exposition - the searing heat of '03 imbued an intensity and richness that translates into flavours of liquored black fruits and warm spices, beautifully woven into the texture of palpable minerality typical to the Rhone terroir.

The searing summer yielded an opulent juice that underwent meticulous vinification to become what can only be described as liquid treasure. The careful balance of Grenache, Syrah and Viognier harnessed the best from that extraordinary year, channeling unique challenges into unforeseen possibilities.

 

A Testament to Exceptional Resilience

Vitality and longevity are hallmarks of fine wine investment and this beautiful paradox is testament to both. As a result of the intense heat, Domaine du Clos Saint Jean doubled down on their expert wine-making processes, ensuring their hallmark elegance was not lost amidst such extreme conditions.

The 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape la Combe des Fous offers a palate of rich, succulent black cherry, ground pepper and garrigue that opens up to an impressively long finish. The hedonic depth it houses today is poetically reflective of the resilience of the terroir. An investable vintage indeed.

In the realm of fine wines, it is not every year that we witness the emergence of such a compelling paradox and it is these exceptional pieces that prove an invaluable addition to any discerning collection.

Market price (SGD)

$1,960.00

12x75cl

Highest score

97

POP score

69.41

Scores and tasting notes

97

A big, ripe and voluptuous effort, the 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape Combe des Fous is thrilling stuff that's drinking beautifully. Incense, exotic pepper, cedar and spice are all supported by a ripe core of sweet kirsch and blackberry fruit. It's full-bodied, rich, textured and voluptuous on the palate. Showing no signs of over-ripeness or astringency, with polished tannin and excellent mid-palate depth, it pumps out loads of fruit on the finish, and should be consumed over the coming handful of years. Since taking control of the estate in 2002, and bringing on board rock star consultant Philippe Cambie, the Maurel brothers has been knocking it out of the park in literally every vintage. 2004? Gorgeous wines and easily at the top in a recent retrospective. The cooler, rainy 2008? Beautiful ripeness and texture, and again, at the top of the hierarchy. 2011 is the same story, and it’s amazing what this team has accomplished in all of their vintages. Looking at this retrospective, we went through all of their cuvees going back to 2003. Unfortunately, there’s no new information here, and this tasting simply confirmed what myself and Robert Parker have been saying for some time now; Clos Saint Jean is at the top of their game and producing some of the most singular, hedonistic and brilliant wines in the world. Starting out with the classic Chateauneuf du Pape, it’s normally a blend of 75% Grenache, with the balance a mix of Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Muscardin and Vaccarese. As is common at this estate, the Grenache is aged all in tank, and the other varieties in a mix of tank and barrels. While I think this cuvee always lags the Vieilles Vignes bottling, it is consistently outstanding and always a super value. Moving to the old vine cuvee, this is made especially for the US Market and is 85% tank aged, old vine Grenache, and the balance Syrah and Mourvedre. It too almost always represents a crazy value and has a broad drink window. I’m currently finishing up a case of the ’08, and purchased two cases of the 2010, which is just starting to open back up after closing down shortly after release. As to the Combe des Fous release, this cuvée comes from a single plot of vines and is based largely on Grenache, with roughly 20% Syrah and 10% each of Vaccarese and Cinsault in the blend. The Grenache is aged all in tank and the other components see time in mostly demi-muids. While the Deux ex Machina always impresses more with its overt power and muscle, this cuvee always seems more polished, fine and elegant to me. One of the greatest cuvees on earth, the Maurel brother’s Sanctus Sanctorum is 100% Grenache that comes from a single plot of vines in the La Crau lieu dit. Aged all in demi-muid, it’s been one of the greatest wines I’ve ever tasted, every time I’ve tasted it. All three of these were sheer perfection on this occasion, yet each has its own unique profile. Lastly, and always the most powerful of the cuvees, the Deus Ex Machina is a blend of 60% tank aged Grenache and 40% demi-muid aged Mourvedre that all comes from 70-100 year old vines. The Mourvedre component is really what defines this cuvee, and it possesses the most obvious structure and mid-palate richness in the lineup. Seeming to hit maturity around age 10 or so, it can be consumed relatively early in its life due to its wealth of fruit, texture, and incredibly polished tannin. In addition, don’t miss this cuvee in the lighter vintages, as even their 2004 and 2008 show classic character and no shortage of richness. Importers: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

Jeb Dunnuck - The Wine Advocate, 27 August 2014

Vintage performance