2011 Corton Charlemagne
By Domaine Coche-Dury
2011 Corton Charlemagne from Domaine Coche-Dury, Burgundy
A vintage that defies the odds, the 2011 Corton Charlemagne from Domaine Coche-Dury encapsulates the art of Burgundy winemaking at its zenith. This year stands out in my memory for the challenges it posed—unpredictable weather patterns swinging from one extreme to another. Yet, this wine is a testament to the meticulous care and profound understanding of terroir by the vintners at Domaine Coche-Dury.
A Vintage Defined by Tenacity and Elegance
Nestled in these revered limestone soils, the Chardonnay grapes for the 2011 vintage were nurtured with indefatigable attention. The 2011 season in Burgundy began quite early with an unseasonal warm spring but was later threatened by a cool and wet August, which demanded a precise and deliberate response in both canopy management and harvest timing. This white grand cru reveals an intricate dance between winemaker heroics and the natural beneficence of Corton's steep slopes and sun-trapping aspect.
Investing in a Slice of Burgundian Excellence
Wine investment enthusiasts will admire not only the laser-sharp precision with which the 2011 Corton Charlemagne articulates its lineage but also its superb ageing potential. Its scent carries hints of toasted hazelnut and vibrant citrus zest, promising further layers of complexity as they mingle with its flint-like minerality. On the palate, it holds true to Domaine Coche-Dury's reputation for producing wines of intense concentration and depth—a core of ripe apple is shot through with vivacious acidity, leading to a long, resounding finish.
The wisdom to invest in such a wine lies not only in the delight it brings to the senses but also in its scarcity. The demand for Corton Charlemagne from Domaine Coche-Dury is perpetually high given its elevated place among white Burgundies, ensuring enduring desirability amongst collectors and connoisseurs alike.
Conclusively, the 2011 vintage proceeds with dignity into the annals of time, commanding respect from all who have the pleasure of tasting or possessing it within their portfolio. It balances power with finesse—a characteristic that subtly underscores this wine as a cornerstone for those invested in fine Burgundian heritage.
Market price (GBP)
£38,290.00
12x75cl
Highest score
96
POP score
2393.13
Scores and tasting notes
The 2011 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has an exquisite bouquet that truly deserves the phrase “liquid mineral.” Imagine a limestone quarry being melted down and then distilled multiple times until there is just enough to fill your wine glass. The palate has perfect acidity and subtle spicy notes on the entry: hints of lime flower, citrus lemon and a subtle note of mandarin coming through with aeration. Is exhibits balletic poise on the finish – a sensational Corton-Charlemagne that just may turn out to be just as good as the 2010. Drink 2018-2035. As I had anticipated, Raphael Coche requested that I visit after he had clocked off for the day. No problem – I’d rather he focuses on the vines than appease the demands of us “pesky” wine writers. This was actually my first visit to the domaine, which seems odd because it is many moons since I first fell in love with Jean-Francois Coche’s wines at a memorable tasting in London in the late 1990s. Since then, Raphael, still in his early thirties, has deftly slipped into his father’s shoes. Tall and the spitting image of papa, I had been forewarned that Raphael can be reticent at times. On the contrary, he was refreshingly garrulous, chatting not only about his own wines but enthusing about Pomerol after I espied a dusty bottle of 1987 Petrus incongruously perched on the shelf. In my opinion, and indeed others’, Raphael has subtly tweaked the style and perhaps even improved on what was already a winning formula. Recent vintages seem more consistent, perhaps even more aligned with their respective terroirs. On this visit, we tasted through most of the domaine’s 2011s that had been bottled the previous spring and are currently on the market. Raphael spoke enthusiastically about the 2011 vintage and rightly so. There is a natural sensibility to these wines, an approachability that is not always evident in their wines, proceeding to compare them to the 2001 vintage. My experience of this domaine’s wines means that I am happy to put long drinking windows for even the village crus, which I often reward a decade in bottle. Personally, I have found less premature oxidation at this address than others, in particular with respect to younger vintages, though nobody is totally immune. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524 and Berkmann Wines in the UK.
Neal Martin - The Wine Advocate, 29 April 2014