Grand Puy Lacoste 1982

This is a tour de force, and one of the all-time great Grand-Puy-Lacostes ever produced, as I hope the 2000 and 2005 will become. This is an inky/purple, beefy, broad, super-rich Pauillac revealing classic creme de cassis notes intermixed with hints of spring flowers and crushed rocks. Full-bodied with sweet tannin, shocking concentration, and layers of fruit, this irresistible 1982 is still an adolescent in terms of its evolution. Anticipated maturity: now-2035. Release price: ($85.00/case)

Tasted at Pebbles/Zachy's 1982 dinner in Hong Kong. This has always been one of the standout wines of the vintage even though it was ferociously backward for many years and only now seems to be entering its drinking plateau. This bottle is consistent with the one last year: broody fruit of blackberry, blueberry and cedar with a lifted scent of bay leaf. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins that provide this Pauillac with a rigid backbone. It is masculine, an 'inward-looking' Claret, traditional in style but with wonderful depth and length on the symmetrical finish. This is an awesome, redoubtable Pauillac for hardcore claret-lovers only! Tasted November 2012.