Grand Puy Lacoste 1990

Along with the 1982, 2000, and 2005, the 1990 is one of those monumental Grand Puy Lacostes that you can't have enough of. Still inky/blue/purple-colored to the rim, it boasts a gorgeously sweet, pure nose of creme de cassis, spring flowers, and a hint of wet rocks. The wine is full-bodied, plush, and expansive with impressive levels of glycerin and purity as well as an endearing texture. This 1990 is evolving at a glacial pace, but the sweetness of the tannins and low acidity ensure a delicious treat whenever a bottle is opened. It should evolve for another 20-25 years. Release price: ($300.00/case)

Tasted at the chateau, this has a deep garnet core. The nose is very tight at first, over-shadowed by the more ebullient '98 at first although it begins to unfurl with aeration and evolves some lovely ripe blackberry, cedar, briary and iodine tinged fruits, the bouquet eschewing any hot summer fruit characteristics. The palate is full-bodied with a firm tannic structure matched by its admirable fruit concentration and its acidity that lends it so much freshness and vitality. Great weight, this reminds me of the awesome '82 that is now only just beginning to drink. Blackberry, raspberry and just a touch of savoury fruit on the long, masculine finish. An outstanding '90, but for those with patience, this will be a Pauillac to treasure for the next 20 years. Tasted April 2008.