Forts de Latour 2004

A very dark colour. A dark broody nose, quite earthy and damson and even sloes. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, blackberries, a touch of soy, a slight earthiness on the finish. Almost savoury on the off-dry finish. Needs time to mellow out, much more unresolved than the '02 but I would suggest a better long-term prospect. Drink 2013-2025. Tasted September 2008.

The estate's second wine continues to go from strength to strength. The 2004 Forts de Latour (includes 75% Cabernet Sauvignon) reveals a deep ruby/purple hue, classic evolved cedary, lead pencil, and cassis characteristics, medium body, beautiful sweetness of fruit, and a more forward, evolved character than its big sibling. Enjoy it over the next 15+ years. Also tasted: 2004 Pauillac (87; $38.00)