Forts de Latour 2005

Very classy with plenty of raspberry, currant, and licorice character. This is dense and compacted on the palate. Leave it for at least two or three years from now.

A deep garnet colour. The nose has tightened up a little since I last tasted it in January. But it retains that exquisite, complex bouquet of blackberry, bilberry, damson, cedar and here, just a hint of sandalwood. It opens up further after ten minutes, gaining intensity and vigour and yet still holding something back. Medium-bodied, superbly balanced with fine but firm tannins. Very pure. Blackberry, bilberry, a touch of hoi sin…yes, something slightly Oriental evolving here, an element that lends it another dimension. Wonderful. Drink 2012-2030. Tasted June 2009.

The 2005 Forts de Latour (10,000 cases produced) possesses much of the same character as Latour, but sweeter tannins, more obvious and forward fruit, medium to full body, and a more seductive, plusher style, but not the great stature, richness, and architectural precision of its bigger brother. Nevertheless, it is a gorgeous Pauillac that should drink well for two decades or more. Latour is always the most difficult Medoc first-growth to find, largely because the vineyard and production are much smaller than its’ peers and because of the severe selection routinely done by owner Francois Pinault and administrator Frederic Engerer.