Latour 2004

Served blind at the chateau. Tight at first on the nose, but unfurling gracefully with cedar and graphite to the fore, underlying sweet, almost exotic fruits waiting in the wings, then with further aeration bilberries and damson. The palate is very well defined, fine tannins, youthful and harmonious, smooth and filigree towards the deft, silky finish. Sublime. Tasted December 2009.

A terrific effort from Administrator Frederic Engerer and owner Francois Pinault, the dark ruby/purple-tinged 2004 Latour exhibits a strong cassis character intermixed with notes of crushed rocks, earth, cedar, and forest floor. Racy, elegant, but powerful with medium to full body, and sweet tannin, it will benefit from 5-7 years of cellaring, and should keep for three decades. It is a very impressive offering. Also tasted: 2004 Pauillac (87; $38.00)

This is surprisingly approachable, especially from a big bottle. It’s soft and fruity with balsamic and sweet tobacco character. Full and round mouthfeel. It will obviously improve with age, but why wait? Served from imperial bottle.