Pichon Lalande 1998

Tasted at the Fine Wine Experience's Pichon-Lalande vertical in London. Quite a deep garnet core with crimson rim (wider than the 2000.) The nose is pleasant if lacking a little vigour: blackberry, sous-bois, a touch of cigar box and cedar, although it seems a little hollow in the middle, as if a major aroma has gone missing. The palate is medium-bodied, nicely balanced, quite elegant although lacking real fruit concentration and depth. Quite sharp, almost citrus acidity with strong tobacco flavours coming through on the mid-palate, leading to a slightly austere finish. It has a classic, traditional charm, although it is a medium-term Pichon rather than long, plus it lacks a little chutzpah. Drink now-2018. Tasted December 2008.

Aromas of tobacco smoke, cedar, cherries, and black currants emerge from the moderately intense, complex bouquet. This wine has evolved nicely, revealing less austerity than it did last year in its medium-weight, delicate personality. Drink it over the next 15-16 years.