Haut Bailly 1989

Tasted at Berry Brother & Rudd's vertical. The 1989 can be variable from bottle to bottle, but this is certainly one of the better ones. It has a strictness on the nose: a headmistress that you would not mind being in trouble with. It is very well defined, more focused than the '90 with hints of orange blossom and sandalwood. The palate is medium-bodied with vibrant dark berry fruit, cedar, black olive and a touch of black pepper. This is imbued with commendable harmony and length: a personality-driven Haut Bailly that is well worth seeking out. Drink now-2020. Tasted October 2011.

Haut-Bailly is often such a restrained, gentle, subtle wine that it can get lost in a blind tasting, particularly when served side by side with more powerful Bordeaux. That was not the case in my recent tasting, as both the 1989 and 1990 vintages performed well. The 1989 is a ripe, sweet, supple wine with a deep ruby color, and an attractive nose of herbs, sweet berry fruit, and smoky tobacco. This soft, low acid, ready to drink wine should continue to evolve gracefully, offering elegant, smooth-as-silk drinking for another 12+ years.