Haut Bailly 2004

The 2004 Haut-Bailly is a candidate for the finest wine of the appellation. Its dark ruby/purple color is accompanied by classic aromas of scorched earth, sweet black currants, cherries, and a hint of pain grille. Light on its feet, but substantially flavored, it possesses stunning purity, good acidity, ripe tannin, and abundant flavor as well as length. It builds incrementally and subtly in the mouth, but it's the real deal. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2024.

Tasted at Berry Brother & Rudd's vertical. The 2004 Haut Bailly has a deep garnet colour. The nose is a little reticent at first and the unfurls in the glass with blackberry, mocha and graphite, a lactic note suggesting that there is still some wood to be integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with fine balance and filigree tannins. This is a patently not a Chateau Haut-Bailly of power or intensity, but it sits back and reclines in a comfy chair. There is a dash of pepper right on the finish of this foursquare but elegant Graves that is drinking now, but should age over 15 years, possibly twenty. Tasted October 2011.

The racy, precise nature of this beautiful wine underlines the beautiful winemaking here. It shows plenty of smoky, berry and mineral character yet is reserved and subtle. It defines what the British call claret: it's all about finesse and balance. Drink now.