Lafleur 2004

Tasted at John Armit's Lafleur seminar in London, the 2004 remains an outstanding wine of the vintage. It is just beginning to show signs of maturation on the rim, whilst the Cabernet Franc component is beginning to exert itself on the nose, imparting a ferrous tincture. It is developing an almost Burgundy-like sense of purity. The palate has a sweet entry for a 2004 with that masculine exterior beginning to soften and reveal supple tannins enveloped in blackberry, orange peel and spice. Compared against the 2005 it unequivocally does not have nearly the same concentration, but it has a sense of hubris and charm that lifts it above its peers. Drink 2015-2025. Tasted April 2012.

Sadly, there are only 1,000 cases of the brilliant 2004 Lafleur (because of the strict selection implemented by proprietor Jacques Guinaudeau and his son, Baptiste). A blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc, the 2004 presently possesses a certain austerity, along with fabulous concentration, and intense kirsch liqueur, licorice, truffle, and spice characteristics. Stunningly proportioned, medium to full-bodied, and powerful, it comes across like a modern day version of Lafleur's brilliant 1979. The aromatics can fill a room, but the tannins kick in in the mouth. Give this Pomerol 5-8 years of cellaring, and drink it over the following 25+.