Le Pin 1986

Tasted at Bipin Desai's Le Pin vertical in Los Angeles. A moderate garnet core with light brick rim. The nose is a little muffled at first with a slight vegetal edge, developing some subtle notes of cigar box, leather, wild mushroom and smoke, although it always seems to be a little morose. The palate is medium-bodied and dominated by firm, masculine tannins that is slightly out of kilter with the level of fruit that fades away towards the finish. But I cannot help admiring its aloofness, which is perhaps why my score might appear generous vis-a-vis verbiage. 600 cases produced. Drink now-2015. Tasted November 2008.

One of the more structured examples of Le Pin, and still surprisingly youthful for a wine that critics say needs to be drunk in its first 5-10 years, this dark garnet-colored wine has notes of licorice, loamy soil scents, sweet black cherries and currants along with some truffle and vanilla. The wine is medium-bodied with a certain firmness and delineation, and less of the charm, glycerin, and opulence that the ripe, more generous vintages provide. The finish is long and almost Medoc-like. Anticipated maturity: Now-2015. Last taste, 12/01.