Le Pin 1998

Tasted at Bipin Desai's Le Pin vertical in Los Angeles. The Le Pin '98 has a rich, decadent nose with macerated black cherries, cassis, dark chocolate, truffle and a touch of molasses. Napa comes to Pomerol indeed! The full-bodied palate is loaded with glycerine, smooth and voluptuous, leaving you instantly smitten by its ravishing personality. Notes of ripe black cherries, blueberry and cassis, very succulent and yet somehow missing the tension that would counterpoise all this hedonism. I can imagine being utterly entranced by this wine if I had it alone, yet juxtaposed against other vintages of Le Pin, I find myself erring towards others less lauded. Just 435 cases produced. Drink 2010-2020+ Tasted November 2008.

A beautifully made, dark ruby/garnet/plum-colored wine, the 1998 Le Pin offers an exotic bouquet of coconut, kirsch liqueur, and jammy blackberries, all flamboyantly dosed with smoky new oak. It is dense, rich, and plush, with a good tannic framework. At one time, Le Pin was the most exotic wine from Bordeaux's right bank, but there is now considerable competition from all the new St.-Emilion upstarts. While this remains an outstanding, often compelling Pomerol, many far less expensive, equally prodigious alternatives have emerged. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2018.