Ausone 1996

I do not understand the critics of Alain Vautier, who now has sole control of Ausone and is taking the estate's quality to a higher level. Moreover, the wine is consistent, with great depth and richness on the mid-palate, without sacrificing Ausone's 40-50+ years of longevity. As I suspected, the 1996 is beginning to shut down. I left it in the glass for nearly 30 minutes and was impressed with the nuances that developed. The color is a dense ruby/black/purple. Reluctant aromas of blueberries, blackberries, minerals, flowers, truffles, and subtle new oak eventually emerge. Elegant on the attack, with sweet ripeness, and a delicate, concentrated richness, the hallmark of this wine is subtlety rather than flamboyance. A sweet mid-palate sets it apart from many of the uninspiring Ausones of the eighties and seventies. The wine is stylish, and presently understated, with tremendous aging potential. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2040.

Tasted at the Ausone vertical in London. A dark garnet hue. The nose is more endearing than the bottle served in July, very perfumed and floral with violets, touch of liquorices and boysenberry, gaining intensity all the time, developing a touch of dried apricot. The palate is medium-bodied, the tannins not quite as fine as the 1998, a little chewier, but good acidity and weight. Just a little abrasive towards the finish, quite edgy and tart and lacking the same level of persistency towards the finish. Drink now-2018. Tasted December 2009.