Ausone 2006

One of the handful of candidates for wine of the vintage is the 2006 Ausone. In fact, while tasting it, I was thinking, is there any estate in Bordeaux that, since 1998, has made as many legendary wines as proprietor Alain Vauthier has at his beloved Ausone? Boasting an inky/blue/purple color as well as an extraordinary, precise bouquet of minerals, flowers, blueberry liqueur, and black currants, this wine possesses fabulous fruit and great intensity, but what makes it so special is its precision, focus, and almost ethereal lightness despite substantial flavor intensity and depth. It is a ballerina with density and power. The abundant noticeable tannin is sweet and, not surprisingly, very finely grained. It should be cellared for a decade, and consumed over the following half century.

Tasted blind at Southwold ’06 Bordeaux tasting. This has a very fragrant, sensuous bouquet with kirsch, black cherries and cassis all interlaced with a sorbet like freshness and vitality. Good definition: enthralling clarity and precision. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, very poised and feminine in style with blackcurrant, cassis and black plum. Understated but very focused, sensual and natural on the finish. Great persistency, really coats the mouth in effervescent fruit that electrifies the senses. Wonderful. Tasted January 2010.

Cedar, new wood and crushed blackberry and raspberry aromas follow through to a palate of vanilla, berry and blackberry character. Balanced and modern, with olts of fruit. Lively, with bright acidity. Best after 2014.