Chateau Canon-la-Gaffeliere 2018

The 2018 Canon La Gaffelière is extraordinary. Fresh, vibrant and bursting at the seams with energy, the 2018 takes full advantage of all the work Stephan von Neipperg and his team have implemented at their properties. Expressive floral and savory notes add myriad shades of nuance to a dark, sumptuous Saint-Émilion that melds together aromatic intensity and fruit richness. Even with all of its intensity, the 2018 retains an element of translucence that is beguiling. The blend is 50% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, which is to say a bit more Cabernet than in the past. Tasted two times.

A bright, mineral-driven style in the making, with the chalky aspect leading the way, quickly followed by a racy stream of red currant, raspberry and cherry coulis flavors. Has the grip of the vintage, but this is piercingly focused in feel.—J.M.

Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2018 Canon la Gaffeliere has a fantastically exuberant nose of preserved plums, blueberry compote and black cherry pie with hints of menthol, mocha, Sichuan pepper and garrigue plus wafts of lavender and tilled soil. Full-bodied, concentrated and wonderfully decadent, it has a firm yet plush texture and just enough freshness in the background, finishing long with a menthol lift.

A lovely, fruity and juicy red with mineral and dried-tea character. Full and tightly structured with a long and flavorful finish. Tight at the moment, but shows momentum and depth.

Owner Stephan von Neipperg always gives a little kick to his wines, a little swirl of oak finesse, a nod in the direction of glamour without going overboard. This gets the balance pretty much perfect, and although you can feel the ripeness of those red fruits, it's balanced by the minerality through the finish that asks you to stop, scrape your way up the limestone walls and rest at the top for the view. Good quality. Harvest ran from 19 September to 4 October, with a yield of 35hl/ha. 50% new oak.