Clos Fourtet 1990

Fully mature, and probably the best Clos Fourtet made during a rather undistinguished period, this dark plum/garnet-colored wine has an enticing nose of melted licorice, Provencal herbs, smoked meats, and sweet cherry and black currant fruit. Medium to full-bodied, with a luscious, succulent texture, excellent concentration, and sweet tannins, this hedonistic yet intellectually satisfying wine is a treat to drink. Anticipated maturity: Now-2010. Last tasted, 1/03.

Although this actually looks more youthful than the '95 Clos Fourtet, the nose is lacking vigour, rather diffuse and undoubtedly lacking the fruit concentration one would expect for the vintage. Touches of dark chocolate in there somewhere