Tasting Notes Calon-Segur 2009
The 2009 has the highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon (90%) ever included in a Calon-Segur (the rest is Merlot and Petit Verdot). Completely different from its St.-Estephe brethren, it is more backward and structured with a dense purple color, lots of black cherry, black currant, loamy earth, forest floor and spice notes, excruciatingly high levels of tannin, and a wonderful inner core of sweetness and concentration. It could behave like the 1982, which, at age 30, is just becoming mature. The 2009 is an uncompromising, masculine, massive style of wine that needs 15-20 years of cellaring even in this luscious, flashy, flamboyant vintage. It is super-tight and needs lots of coaxing and aeration. Anticipated maturity: 2025-2050+. Sadly, Madame Gasqueton, one of the great grands dames of Bordeaux, passed away recently. She was a no nonsense, always gracious lady who normally received me early in the morning, sometimes before the sun had even risen. I have many fond memories of her for her professionalism and her talent in making long-lived, traditional Bordeaux.
Served blind at the Southwold 2009 tasting. Calon-Segur is an extremely difficult wine to taste in its youth since it is a long-distance runner that does not kowtow to those demanding more immediate wines. The 2009 has a more understated bouquet with broody bilberry and blackberry fruit, sous-bois and graphite emerging with aeration. The palate is smooth and seductive on the entry, exerting a gentle grip and needing a little more vigour and penetration towards the finish that takes its foot off the accelerator. This will improve as there is good substance in the first half. Tasted January 2013.