Leoville Poyferre 2015

Ripe and slightly jammy, with lots of oak and tannin, this is a good rather than a great Léoville-Poyferré. There’s a figgy note to the fruit, too, but the underlying structure is good, with freshness on the finish and firm, fine-grained tannins. Drink: 2021-28

This features depth and focus, with a really solid core of currant and blackberry lined with ample iron and briar notes. Not shy with the toast, but the finish is energetic, and everything is pulling together.—J.M.

The 2015 Léoville Poyferré is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc that was harvested between 24 September and 10 October. The IPT comes in at 80 with a pH 3.69. It has a typical Léoville-Poyferré bouquet at this stage: quite bullish and forthright, packed full of dense black cherries, red plum and cassis, the 85% new oak pronounced, but will be subsumed with bottle age. The palate is full-bodied with mouth-coating tannin: layers of graphite-infused black fruit, cedar and mint, almost Pauillac-like in personality with a sustained graphite finish. This is a sophisticated Saint Julien built for long-term ageing, perhaps less flamboyant than recent vintages, but the terroir shows through. Expect it to land at the top of my banded score, possibly higher.

Deep purple. Glowing. Flattering nose but without the undertow of some. Lots of energy and just a hint of sweet oak. A solid performance.